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Our June Wine Appreciation visit to the Languedoc was a success! At least the 41 participants said so!
We crossed the Channel Portsmouth – Caen and on the second day we arrived at Issoire, in the Auvergne by teatime – well there isn’t such a thing as teatime in France of course, so we inspected the town.
The bunting was all aloft for the Tour de France which was to start a stage here on July 10th, and we immediately felt part of this great event because of the decorations and their static displays, they take their cycling seriously in France!
Many found their way into the Cathedral where the highly painted interior was most unusual and colourful!
Next morning, we were on the road again and within an hour we were pulling into an “Aire” where we were able to admire old Eiffel’s Viaduct de Garabit rising up out of the mist like something from Lord of the Rings – well, it would have been a better film if they had thought to include it! Eiffel cut his teeth on this masterpiece and then the tower in Paris was just a piece of cake for him!
But another viaduct was calling, and in another short hour on the near deserted motorway we were pulling in to the “Aire de Millau”. At 11.30 on a Monday morning we had the newly built, lavishly fitted visitors centre almost to ourselves. After a coffee, most took in the “How we built the Millau Viaduct” exhibition, a truly amazing enterprise. The fit and able did the walk to the top of a knoll where the best picture of this masterpiece could be taken. Higher than the Eiffel Tower, it looked very impressive in the morning sunshine and we felt proud that the architect was our own Norman Foster. Back on the road at 1.00 for the short drive to La Couvertoirade, the very old crusader village. For some, it was the highlight of the whole week! The tourist office even opened up the gate to the rampart walls for us! If ever you find yourself in this area – be sure to visit this little gem!
On to our hotel for the next 4 nights, The Hotel de la Paix at Lodeve, where we arrived at 4.30, bang on schedule time, amazing!
But at 6.00, David Reverbel, the young and dashing (so said one or two members) owner of the Caves Pegairolles was all ready to address us with our very first tasting of Languedoc wines. These were mainly Syrah and Grenache based wines.
On Wednesday, we left at 9.00 and found our way through narrow roads to the Co-
Just before midday we were off cross country for another fix of sightseeing. First to the Devil’s bridge (just how many did that Devil build?). This one was built by Benedictine Monks in the early 11th century, in spite of the local Devil who kept knocking it down!
On to St Guilhem le Desert, one of the Plus Beaux Villages of France, where St. Guilhem, the one with the short nose who married Queen Orable, founded this lovely spot. Walking around, you could easily pick out the descendents of this couple, ‘cos their short noses were protruding from every street corner, shop doorway and restaurant! But you could not deny the beauty and serenity of this place, not to mention the photo opportunities it offered.
The evening commenced with the doctor! – Graeme Angus, an English doctor who was
now following his passion – wine making -
Next day – away again at 9.00am – more back roads to the prestigious Belles Eaux winery at Caux. This winery has been taken over by AXA insurance and has been added to their portfolio of up market wineries situated all over the world. We were royally treated by Yann, given a tour of the updated old winery, and then sat under a delightful tree shaded area where we could appreciate that hot sunny day to its fullest. Wine came thick and fast, well it was just past 11.00am, cumulating in the flagship St. Hellene red which retailed at 31 euros a bottle. (But well worth it!)
Off to the Mediterranean for lunch at Bouziques. Famous for its oysters – and you can eat a dozen of these and not feel at all full! Some were worried about no “r” in June (I’ve always spelt it Juner) and had moules.
Then on to Pinet, a tiny village but famous for its Picpoul de Pinet. This is a unique dry white wine that is delightfully suited to the oysters that are harvested 5 miles to the south. It does what Muscadet does for the Cancale Oysters, only – I think – better, more depth and more body. At the Caves l’Ormarine, the largest winery in Pinet, the Director, Cyril Payon, personally showed us round. He was passionate about his wines and we needed to remind him that a tasting and a dinner were awaiting us at our hotel later that evening! Oh no its not, he must have thought, ‘cos he then put us back in our coach and told the driver to follow him and the accompanying van which, we were to discover, was laden with table, table cloth, coolers and numerous bottles of wine. We drove up into the vineyards until we reached a lovely spot overlooking the Mediterranean. It was hot, but a little cooling breeze was coming up from the sea across the tops of the vines. We could not believe that a tasting could be conducted in such a setting – this was the nearest to heaven that I would achieve – I thought at the time! Their Rosé, their Carte Noir, the top of the range Duc de Mornay – hey it was only 5.30pm!
We got back at 6.40 and apologised to the lovely Francoise Ollier of Domaine Ollier Taillefer for having to start the next tasting, late, at 7.00pm. This tasting comprised of wines from the well respected Faugeres appellation. Francoise’s command of the English language was not quite up to her obvious wine making skills and this led to a certain amount of banter and dare I say it innuendo, but it was all in the spirit of the occasion.
The Friday was advertised as “No Winery Visits”! So off to Aigues Mortes at 9.00, and as we drove up to the ancient walls of the historic town, there was our little train awaiting us! Off we went, circumnavigating the perimeter of the 16 feet thick walls and then entering the narrow maze of streets. This was a delightful little town and it was perhaps a shame that we did not have more time to spend here. But, after the train ride, we found our way to the central St.Louis square, a most atmospheric centre of town where the cafes abound. A chance to purchase a picnic at some really tasty looking shops and we were off again to Beziers.
We skirted Beziers in order to get to “Les Neuf Ecluses” a flight of nine locks on the historic Canal du Midi, and probably the most visited part of the whole of this 240 km waterway. It was very busy with boats proceeding down the canal, and we enjoyed the ambiance here, snacking on our picnics. Next, onto the little tourist train and round the streets of Beziers, up the boulevards, commentary blaring in a somewhat overdone poetic fashion. We arrived at the Cathedral high up on the hill. Magnificent building but sad story about the Cathars being burnt to death there in the early middle ages. Quick visit and then back for the remainder of the train ride and return to our coach.
Now to Pezenas, another little gem, medieval architecture, narrow winding streets, an old Jewish ghetto, craft shops abounding, most of them reminding us that Moliere the famous old French playwright once lived and acted here.
Our last tasting at the hotel that evening was a tasting of Limoux wines, a south
western Languedoc appellation -
Christophe, the hotel’s sommelier was increasingly evident at these hotel tastings, and amused us (and informed us!) with his considerable knowledge.
Tonight however, he was to perform his cabaret act, with a roll of the drums; he opened a bottle of Champagne with a table knife!
We ended with a gala dinner and a bit of our own cabaret!
The long trip home tomorrow.
The time in the coach passed quickly as we were engrossed in quizzes and – dare I say – songs!!
We arrived at Tours by 6.00pm and at 7.00pm we were off again for our final fling on the town, this time around old Tours and atmospheric Plumereau Square. Lovely half timbered houses provided a scenic backdrop for our last meal in France. The cabaret on this occasion was the hen parties and the bachelor parties that abound in Tours on a Saturday night, and it wasn’t our fault that we couldn’t tell the difference between the two!
How this trip measured up to the previous forays to Rioja and the Moselle was not important, I think we all enjoyed the week! But, of course, we will have to now answer those incredulous enquirers who will say “What, you drove the whole length of France to taste some wine?”
June Wine Appreciation visit to the Languedoc
